Laos: Vientiane

Laos has always been on my travel bucket list so I made it a point to visit it as soon as I could. I had visited of the SE Asian countries except Laos. Laos turned out to be one of my favorite Asian destinations in my travels. It's long and tumultuous history has led to a rich culture. I've only known a couple of people who have had the opportunity to visit Laos so I wanted to visit it for myself before it became another tourist congested zone. 

Since I only had a week, I only had enough time to visit two places-Vientiane and Luang Prabang. I researched that the transportation wasn't as good to travel within the country since there is no national railway system so the only way to travel is by air or bus. There was a high risk of delays due to the muddy roads from the rainy season. I didn't want to risk delays so I booked a flight from Vientiane to Luang Prabang before traveling to Laos so I could visit those two main places. 

Vientiane 
The capital of Laos is rather walkable city since most temples, restaurants, and cafes are at the city center. Some sites it's best to hire a tuk-tuk. The capital is still at its developing stages as there are no high rises, large malls, main downtown area, or floods of tourists. It is a good thing that all of this hasn't happened to preserve it's local culture and historic sites, but I felt it was needed to encourage investment and modernization in the capital. 

There are 3 main sites in Vientiane to visit in the city. 

1. Pha That Luang ("Great Stupa"):
This sacred is the national symbol of Laos as it is the most venerated Buddhist temples. The holy site was founded long ago in the 3rd century  as a Hindu temple and has witnessed numerous reconstructions throughout the centuries. The present Buddhist temple was established when the royal capital was moved to Vientiane from Luang Prabang in the 16th century. It is a rather simple shrine enclosed by a rectangular stone wall. The main stupa rises as a pinnacle and is surrounded by shorter spires on its sides. The whole structure is covered with golden paint. If you step close you can spot signs of aging as weathering has taken a toll on it. It was nice and quiet since I went late in the afternoon and only local monks were there singing. It was the simplest yet majestic of the temples I saw in Vientiane.

 

 

2. Patauxai ("Victory Gate):
This arch was completed in 1968 as a war monument to fallen Laotians during the independence movement from France. It is a Laotian designed arch some say distantly resembling the Arc de Triomphe in France. It is located on a long straight road that leads to Pha That Luang from the city center. For a small fee, you can climb atop and have a spectacular view of the city from all 4 sides. It is definitely worth the trip just for the view alone. As one of the major symbols of the city, it was a truly impressive modern marvel with its intricate carvings of European style with Laotian religious symbols and history. 

 

3. Wat Si Siket
The oldest surviving temple in Vientiane. It was the most impressive in my opinion due to it's preservation and religious iconography. It was raining the day I visited so not many visitors were there and I couldn't get an ideal photo shot, but it was still an interesting visit. This temple complex was built in 1818. Although not as ancient as those in the older capital Luang Prabang, it was quite impressive. It consists of a large walled courtyard with a main temple. It's yellow and red painted pillars and walls made it stand out despite the dark and overcast sky. The inner walls surrounding the temple are lined with numerous buddhist statues in different styles from different ages. Some look like they are older than the temple itself. It reminded me of Wat Po in Bangkok where the courtyard is similarly decorated. 

  

 

 

Other sites in Vientiane I visited were:

That Dam (Black Stupa)

This crumbling stupa shows the scars of being desecrated and stripped of it's gold coating from the Siamese suppression of Lao independence rebels in 1827. It is off the main city center and tourist roads but is a good remnant of Lao history. There is a small grassy park that surrounds the site. When I visited, I didn't see anyone else so it was nice to stroll around the structure. 

 

Wat Inpeng

This temple is at the center of the town and often visited due to its location and proximity to hotels, hostels, restaurants, and bars. It was vibrantly decorated with buddhist mythological symbols, animals, warriors, and royalty. Most of the temples downtown are free (except Wat Si Saket) so its nice to wander around and marvel at the Lao architecture. 

 

Lao National Museum

Housed in an old French colonial building, the exterior retains its former grandeur. There are trees and flowers surrounding the museum building. Inside, there are relics from its ancient and classical periods. There is also a big section on modern communist influences in Laos and SE Asia. Not as impressive or extensive as I thought, but it was nice to see some relics from Lao culture and history.

 

Presidential Palace

The palace is a gray and white painted mega structure that is fitting for the head of state. It is gated with black iron bars and makes for a good photo shoot from it's front. Unfortunately, it's closed to the public so you can only take a picture of it and move on. It isn't as heavily guarded as other presidential palaces I've visited, but there aren't many tourists nearby it so there is probably not a need. 

Food
Whenever I travel, I make sure to research good local delicacies and restaurants so I could sample the local cuisine. It's the best way to immerse yourself in the culture and history. 

Traveler tip: Don't be afraid to take risks in trying street food, it is usually the cheapest and tastiest. Avoid ones with few or no people. Try to go to the ones with long lines as you know the turnover rate is high therefore the food is fresh. Just use your common sense in judging the hygiene of the food stall before purchasing. 

During my stay in Vientiane I tried the following:

Joma Bakery and Cafe:
Dragon fruit and pineapple shake

Lao Kitchen:
Fried Mekong Fish, Sticky Rice, Morning Glory, and Beer Lao
 

 

Le Banneton Bakery and Cafe:
Full breakfast: du bacon, des oeufs, le croissant, tartine avec confiture et beurre

Local noodle shop my Airbnb host took me to:
rice noodles with garlic, onions, bean sprouts, chicharon, fried bread & fresh coconut juice

 

 

Street food:
Fried donuts and sweets, yogurt dessert; and Vietnamese spring rolls

 

 

Overall, Vientiane was a good introduction into Lao culture and history. I thought 2 days was more than enough to see in the city. Besides the one I visited, theres not much since most of the ancient sites have been destroyed through the centuries due to war and redevelopment. Luang Prabang, I learned was older and was more of the cultural capital of Laos. I wish I had more time to venture to nearby sites such as Vang Vien, but I guess there's always next time. I would recommend only 1 whole day to really see the main sites in Vientiane. It has the biggest airport in the country so its the main entry hub from Korea, China, Thailand, Japan, and other Asian origin cities. 

My next post will be on the rest of my trip which was in Luang Prabang. I was there for a longer period so I felt I saw and experienced everything. 

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Myanmar: Yangon Part II

For the remaining two days in my trip, I spent it in Yangon since I didn't have enough time. I really wanted to travel to Bagan and Mandalay, but the distance and transportation to get there was insufficient. My return trip to Myanmar will focus on those must-see destinations. 

The next morning after my daytrip to the Golden Rock Pagoda and Bagan, I visited a local tea shop which was recommended by my driver. It was a nice little dive mom and pop shop which made for another authentic local experience. I ordered tea which was mixed with condensed milk for a nice and soothing drink. This tea was typical in most East Asian countries I visited most likely from colonial influence. 

Golden Bell tea shop:

 

After, I wandered around the area nearby to visit some famous sites such as the Bogyoke Aung San Market and Holy Trinity Cathedral. I wanted to visit the market as I often learn a lot about local food and culture through local markets, but they were closed due to the holiday. 

Bogyoke Aung San Market- This market was named after National Hero General Aung San. Originally built in 1921 by the British it was called Scott Market, named after a British colonial official in Myanmar. This local market is where food, garments, and other goods. 

 

Holy Trinity Cathedral- This cathedral was built in the late 1800s and was a prominent church in the community and served as an important house of worship to British colonials. 

 

After, I met up with my friend for lunch. I read about this restaurant called "House of Memories." 

House of Memories
This restaurant is in a historic colonial building which was the home of Dina Nath (Indian Independence Army for Burma) and his wife. It also was the first office of national hero and martyr General Aung San during World War II. The exterior appears as a tudor-style house with it's half-timbered white and black facade. The interior is elegantly decorated and there were exhibits from it's former owner Dina Nath and famous tenant General Aung San. We had a sample of various authentic local Myanmar cuisine at the restaurant.

 

 

 

 

Acacia Tea Salon

After, my friend and I visited the Acacia Tea Salon in a higher end neighborhood. It was a nice Victorian-like designed teahouse. It's whitewashed paint and colonial style interior seemed to invoke scenes of former Burmese days. It's cakes and pastries were elegantly displayed like any European cafe. There was even a movie shoot upstairs while we came. Looking around, it seemed mostly middle-upper class patrons frequented this place. Even though the country is still developing, it still showed the contrast between life in the rich and poor neighborhoods. I am not against it's establishment, because I enjoy these type of cafes, but it was just interesting to compare this place with the small local teashop I went to in the morning. I actually prefer simple mom and pop places, but once in awhile I like to splurge to get a balance of my travel experiences. 

Exterior:

Interior and desserts:

 

The next day was my last day in Yangon so I wanted to finish seeing the famous sites I didn't get to see. I hired a private car to drive me around to save time and see as much as I could before my flight in the evening. 

The Strand Hotel

This classy and elegant hotel was built in 1901 during the British Colonial Period. It takes one back to the glory days of British Burma with its white-washed paint, wooden chairs and furniture, and exceptional service. The hotel is located near the Yangon River in the neighborhood filled with the best surviving colonial buildings in Yangon. Many of the buildings in the area is still occupied by shops and public services. 

I wanted to experience this hotel so I had breakfast at it's famous Strand Cafe on the ground floor. I ordered an eggs benedict with a pot of English Breakfast tea. It was a unique experience as I got to experience Colonial hospitality in an authentic environment. After, I walked around the ground floor and went to some small boutiques

 

 

 

National Museum of Myanmar

This museum houses many historical, cultural, and artistic artifacts from it's nation's past. Unfortunately, it is housed in a crumbling, run-down, and poorly maintained and ventilated facility. The building is housed in a drab gray and pink building from the 1950's. It was so hot and I was sweating so I had a miserable time within the museum. I went quickly as I could to escape the dimly light sauna. There was only one room that was equipped with air condition machines that were working. It seems there is not much funding to maintain this museum. The museum itself had a variety of artifacts spanning from the paleolithic period to the Post-WWII era. The highlight of the museum was the Royal Throne room with a massive golden door decorated with precious jewels and gems and carved religious and historic symbols and figures. Royal scepters and ceremonial items are also on display. Unfortunately, no photos are allowed in the museum so my only pictures consist of it's unimpressive exterior and some statues. 

 

Shan Yoe Yar

For lunch, I went with my driver to a nice Shan Noodle shop. Shan noodle is a regional specialty from the Shan Region (Eastern state) which borders China, Thailand, and Laos. I had the famous Shan noodles ( Shan khao swé) which were thinly sliced rice noodles with minced pork, crushed peanuts, garlic, local green vegetables, onions, and a nice tasty broth and deep fried tofu. It was a nice meal and I wish I had tried more Shan dishes. 

Bahadur Shah Zafar Tomb

This shrine houses the remains of the last Mughal Emperor who was exiled to Yangon by the supporting the Indian rebellion of 1857. He lived his remaining years until his death in 1862. His tomb was forgotten and lost until it was rediscovered in 1991. This sacred site is near Shwedagon Pagoda, but there were not many stores or houses nearby. His tomb was made into a Muslim mosque and is mostly visited by worshippers. There were no other tourists at the site which made for a quiet and enjoyable experience. It is not as famous or grand as Shwedagon, but it is an important historic site.

 

 

Bahadur Shah II's tomb 

 

The Shah's wife and family members tombs

Aung San Suu Kyi's House

This house on the road toward's the airport is one of the most famous sites in Yangon. It is where Nobel Prize Winner/ national democracy hero and current NLD MP Aung San Suu Kyi lives. This is where she was under house arrest for 15 of the 21 years during the period of 1989-2010. It is a powerful symbol and testament for her and the NLD's resistance and persistence in fighting for democracy. I wanted to go inside, but it's her private residence so no one is allowed inside. So I just took a picture from the outside while passing by.

Overall, my trip to Myanmar was exhilarating, mind-opening, and unique. I was able to learn and experience a country who is still in it's transition into a more globally connected partner due to it's political, economic, and social reforms. It's recent first free democratic elections demonstrate it's dramatic shift and determination to progress. The country still has a long way to go and many more reforms have to be made to fully flourish from it's opening to the world. There is a lot of foreign investment into construction projects, housing developments, shopping districts, and tourist facilities. These new changes are good and bad for local residents as it might cause some forced relocation and or they may not directly benefit from it's profits, but it would clean up and create a more sustainable environment. Also, jobs would be created in construction, hospitality, tourism, and other areas which provide more opportunities to many who struggle to find work. I genuinely hope Myanmar can fully develop, maintain it's democracy, and provide opportunities for it's people to thrive and benefit from it's recent entrance into the international stage. 

Thank you for reading and sharing my series on Myanmar. 
My next series will be my past summer trip to Laos! 

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