Myanmar: Kyaikhtiyo & Bago

This morning, I woke up early and hired a private car to take me to Kyaikhtiyo and Bago. These two ancient and historic sites were a few hours drive from Yangon. I was a bit sleepy, but I didn't want to miss the chance to see local rural life while driving past towns and cities on the way. I was able to learn about local customs and history from my driver so the drive up was enjoyable and informative. A few hours in the drive, my driver and I got hungry so he took us to a pit stop in a local roadside restaurant. I was a bit apprehensive of eating there because it was a little run-down, full of flies, and wasn't as clean. But, I didn't want to offend him or the locals so I ate too. I normally prefer mom and pop restaurants that are frequented by locals, but this one looked sketchy. Like my driver, I ordered fried rice with eggs and a milk tea. I was worried about getting sick during the trip, but it turned out nothing happened. Throughout my many travels, I prefer to eat local street food, but sometimes I avoid less crowded places as there is less turnaround which means the food has been sitting there exposed to the elements. 

Breakfast at the roadside restaurant:

 

After the breakfast, we continued our journey and finally arrived at the first stop-- Kyaikhtiyo.

Kyaikhtiyo (Golden Rock Pagoda): This sacred and historic site consists of a massive boulder which sits at the edge of a cliff on a mountain-top. It is covered with gold paint and gold leaf (placed by worshipers for good luck). It is topped with a funnel spire-like pagoda (similar to those typical in Myanmar and Thailand). My driver dropped me off at the base of the mountain. The only way up the mountain is to take one of the top-down bus-truck hybrid. Taking this vehicle made the experience worthwhile and exhilarating. Not for the faint of heart, the drive was a bit rocky, unsteady, and fast. There were no seat belts and seating was cramped and unsafe by Western standards. The driver didn't seem concerned about safety and speeded up  the mountain. Fortunately, no one fell off or got hurt. Despite the treacherous ride up, I enjoyed it as it felt as if I was in an Indiana Jones movie evading the enemies. Also, it was mostly packed with locals so it seems they ride it all the time and weren't afraid either. When traveling, its best to take public transportation and or other local vehicles so you can truly gain an authentic experience unlike the conventional and uneventful tour buses. After a 30-40 minute death-defying ride up, I arrived at the temple. Just as expected, one must take off shoes and socks at the entrance. If you are a local, its free to enter, but if you are a foreigner you have to pay a fee. If you know a local, its best to go with one to avoid this fee. The temple complex consists of a main street lined with food and gift stores. There is a main courtyard with mini shrines and the main Golden Rock area near the mountain's edge. There is an excellent view from the top. Unfortunately, only men are allowed to up close to the rock and place gold leaf on it for good luck. There is a separate worshipping area for women adjacent to the gate to the rock. The site seemed quiet and surreal. It had a fair amount of people, but only a handful were near the rock itself. I was fortunate to get up close to the rock and marvel at its natural position sitting at the edge and how thousands have worshipped at this sacred site through the centuries. 

Bus-truck ride to the top:

 








Golden Rock Pagoda Shrine:

 

After touring around, I had to hop on the bus to get back down. There were long lines to get on and everytime a bus would arrive, locals would literally jump on while it was still moving so by the time it arrived at the waiting platform, it was completely full. This had gone on for 30-40 minutes. There is not a set schedule and it would take an 1 hour to walk down the mountain. My driver told me a specific time and I didn't want to be left so I did like the locals and ran and jumped one of the buses just as it arrived before it pulled into the waiting area. It was almost like a scene from a movie! Was a bit stressful but fun at the same time! 

After, my driver took me to the former ancient capital of the Mon dynasty. It is an area littered with temples, shrines, and palaces. I'm glad I hired a driver since it would be difficult to see all the sites as it was a very rural area and didn't see much public transportation. 

Shwemawdaw Pagoda: Founded in the 10th century, this Mon-dynasty site has been an important site for worshippers throught the centuries. It was not as crowded by tourists, and was thus more enjoyable. It was structured similar to Shwedagon with a golden pagoda at the center. 

 

 

Shwethalyaung Buddha: One of the oldest and largest buddha statues in Myanmar, this giant buddha statue has survived the centuries. It is a white colored buddha reclining buddha with a golden robe. 

Kyaik Pun Pagoda: This pagoda was one of the most impressive sites I saw in Bago. It consists of 4 side by side monolithic buddha statues. Each statue is decorated and designed depict different buddhas. 

 

 

 

I'm glad I was able to see Bago and Kyaikhtiyo. It showed me a more ancient and rural side of Myanmar away from Yangon. Through this excursion I was able to gain more understanding of Myanmar history and culture through it's people and sacred sites. When traveling, its best to get out of the big cities and visit smaller and more ancient towns to fully appreciate the country. 

Next post will be a wrap up of my Myanmar trip with more sites and food from Yangon.

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Myanmar: Yangon, Part I

For the last few years, I've been yearning to go to Myanmar. I first heard about the country from my former college roommate who grew up there. After the economic and political opening of the country to the international community in 2011. After seeing Former Secretary Clinton and Anthony Bourdain visiting the country, I wanted to visit the country even more. I've been to all but 1-2 SE Asia countries (Brunei, East Timor), Myanmar was definitely on the top of my list. Since moving back to Korea, I finally got that chance! 

A few months ago, I was fortunate to have booked a flight to Yangon. I arrived in the morning so I was able to see a lot. Fortunately, my former college roommate was living in Yangon and we planned to meet. Before we met, I had some time to explore the area near my hotel. 

Sule Pagoda- one of the famous Buddhist temples in Yangon. The structure consisted of a large golden pagoda in the center surrounded by buddha statues and flanked by shrines. Please note, that when visiting temples in Myanmar, you must walk barefoot as a sign of respect (no socks). I've been to many temples in my travels and this was the first time I had to walk barefoot. It wasn't the cleanest of floors since wild birds roamed around and the floor was wet and covered partially in mud. I was a bit hesitant at first, but it was essential for me to follow such protocol so I did. The pagoda was unlike other temples I've seen in SE Asia. Water was poured onto Buddhist statues (based on birth month). The main structure is a tall golden conical pagoda. 

 

Baha Mandoola Park - Site of a former British colonial park, it is nearby the Sule Pagoda. It was a medium sized park with an independence obelisk at it's center. There is a fountain and it's perimeter is surrounded by deteriorating colonial era buildings from British Burma. 

After, I met up with my friend, I saw a few more sites.

People's Park- This large metropolitan park is filled with colorful flowers, trees, streams, droves of locals, and a huge courtyard to house events. It was nice to see a great use of green space in a rather large and crowded city. Near it's entrance is a newly built strip mall with cafes, restaurants, and stores. This strip mall wasn't as crowded as expected, but it is a symbol for modernization and economic investment into tourism. My hope is that business will continue to grow so locals can be employed and benefit from it.

 

 

Shwedagon Pagoda- One of the holiest, sacred, and venerated sites in Myanmar and SE Asia, this pagoda is believed to house Buddha relics inside it's golden structure. This massive complex is surrounded by large Buddhist shrines with statues, ornaments, and beautifully gilded walls and murals. This ancient site has faced numerous renovations due to earthquakes and disrepair throughout the centuries. Watching tv programs or reading books about it do not do it justice. It must be seen and experienced. The day I visited it was more crowded than usual since it was a religious holiday. Hundreds of worshipers had traveled from all the corners of Myanmar and neighboring regions to visit the holy site. It was truly a site to see and am glad to have seen all the revelry and celebratory processions. 

 

 

 

Food

For meals, I was eager to try local cuisine as I think the best way to immerse in a culture is through it's food. Luckily, my friend introduced me to traditional foods including: noodles, soup, melted tofu, and biryani. 

Kyay Oh: Vermicelli noodles in broth with pork offals and vegetables. Very tasty.

Si gyet khauk swè: Wheat noodles with pork ribs, fried garlic, and chopped green onions. Very simple but has great flavor. 

To hpu nway (Shan Tofu): Soft warm creamy tofu. It was so delicious and almost tasted like alfredo sauce minus the calories. One of the best dishes I tried in Myanmar. 

After a long first day, I was satisfied for my first taste of the sights and smells of Yangon. Despite the humidity and scorching heat, I enjoyed exploring and getting to know such a culturally diverse country. 

Travel tip: There are few direct flights from the U.S. to Yangon so you might have to layover or fly from Seoul, Bangkok, or Beijing. If you are in Asia, there are several budget airlines like Air Asia, Dragon Air, Bangkok Airways, Tiger Air. Note, most visitors need a visa prior to arrival. The process is quick and easy. You must apply and pay online at the Myanmar Government website: http://evisa.moip.gov.mm/.

Next post will be on my excursion to Kyaikhtiyo & Bago! Stay tuned!

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