Seoul Searching: Return to Korea

Korea, the land of tradition & innovation; old & new; and ancient temples & electronic mega stores.  Often overshadowed by other Asian countries, it is now gaining international attention with the global spread of Korean dramas, K-pop, Korean electronics, and Korean athletics. Throughout my travels I've come across, traces of the Korean wave from famous Korean restaurant chains to local markets selling Korean cosmetics and food, it has transcended beyond borders. 

People are often confused about Korea since the country is divided. I'm always asked if I had lived in the North or the South. It is not possible to freely travel to and from the North and South; and both countries are politically very different. I think the general obliviousness is due to coverage of mostly Korean peninsula tensions (with the exception of Gangnam Style). People should dig deeper and read about the history and complexity of Korean current issues so they have a better understanding of this important geopolitical region and why their are tensions.

I had lived and worked in Seoul, South Korea for 2 years before so I have experience with the culture, food, history, language, and customs. I learned a great deal about not only Korea, but about life since this was my first time independently living and working abroad. I also was fully immersed in Korean daily life through my interactions with co-workers, local friends, and store owners. I know some expats who refuse to learn Korean language or culture and only hangout with expats. This is unfortunate as I believe that if you are traveling, living, or working abroad, you must experience the local culture and fully immerse yourself so you can gain new experiences, meet new people, and fully understand current issues.

When I returned to the U.S., I found I had missed Korea as I built a lot of memories there and had many new travel experiences (kayaking and rafting for the first time) in Korea and Asia. It seemed like a dream when I was going about daily life back in California. I've always wanted to return to Korea to re-visit my favorite spots, but I thought it would be years away. Then, a few months ago, I was presented the opportunity to come back and work in Korea. I jumped at the chance and returned recently. I realized that I appreciate Korea even more now as I've been more active in learning Korean, networking more, joining meetup groups, continuing my food adventures, and spending more time outdoors.

                    

Gwangwhamun Gate and Cheongyecheon Stream

In order to give you a quick orientation into Seoul, I'd like to share some of my favorite spots.

Samcheongdong/Bukchon Village- (Anguk, Subway line 3, exit 1)- This area nestled between Gyeongbukgung and Changdeokgung Palaces is a pleasant, unique, historic, and aesthetic cultural area. It is lined with small boutiques, cafes, restaurants, art galleries, and museums. I often go there on weekends to stroll along its endless alleyways and I always find something new. It is located within the famous Bukchon Village which is a community built in the traditional hanok style. One can get away from the hustle and bustle of busy Seoul and be transported back to the Joseon Dynasty period when walking it's ancient streets. 

Sangsu-Dong (Sangsu, Line 6, exit 1) - Often overlooked by it's neighbor Hongdae, this area is much more quiet and pleasant. South of Hongik University, Sangsu has many cafes, restaurants, bars, and stores. It is a great place to stroll after an evening meal or have a drink at one of it's intimate pubs. 

Gwangjang Market (Euljiro 4-Ga, Line 2 & 5, exit 4) - Despite it being a tourist spot, this traditional market is one of the biggest in Seoul and it is the oldest (over 100 years old). The main attraction for most people is the food area. There you can find traditional food from kimchi and side dishes to market specialties raw beef, mayak kimbap, binddaedeok (bean sprout fritters), jokbal, jeon (Korean pancakes), noodles, and mandu (dumplings).

Han River- This is at the heart of Seoul. It runs across the city and is a must-see. It's a nice place to jog, have a picnic, walk your dog, go biking, or just take a stroll. I often run along its banks in the evenings and weekends due to its scenery and escape from the busy city that surrounds it. It's free and easily accessible from many neighborhoods nearby. 

 

Since I've returned to Korea, I will periodically post Korea travel stories, tips, and general info about Korea so you can enjoy your study, travel, or work experience here. 

Remember the Alamo: Trip to San Antonio, Part II

San Antonio was one of my favorite U.S. trips because the city continually strives to preserve historical buildings and sites which have played a significant role in shaping Texas and U.S. history. The San Antonio Conservation Society has been a major force in recognizing historical contributions and preventing modernization from overshadowing it's robust history. This final mini-series post will focus on San Antonio's historic and cultural sites.

Here are some highlights of famous buildings downtown:

O. Henry House Museum

U.S. Post Office Building

Aztec Theater

Emily Morgan Hotel

Buckhorn Saloon and Museum

Travis Park Methodist Episcopal Church

Majestic Theater

Oldest VFW Post in Texas

Casa Navarro:

 

The main downtown area has many interesting and architectural styles from Spanish Colonial to Art Deco. It wasn't as congested as other big cities (e.g Los Angeles) which made it more enjoyable. I traveled on foot from the outskirts of the main downtown area to the Southwest Art School and San Antonio Art Museum. I later discovered later that I took the long way to get to both. 

Southwest Art School- is on the site of the Ursuline Academy founded in 1851 as a girls school led by Nuns. It was later moved and the site now houses the Southwest Art School.

Southwest Art School Historic Buildings:

 

The San Antonio Art Museum is housed in the historic Lone Star Brewery building. It was built in 1905 and was sold to the museum in the 1970s. It's a large complex that houses a significant Asian, Classical, Latin American, and European paintings, sculptures, furniture, and artifacts. They were renovating and remodeling at the time I visited so some areas were closed off and some major Western painting wings were closed which was a bit disappointing, but overall, the displays I saw were sufficient.

San Antonio Art Museum:

 

 

 
Next to the Hemisfair Park, is the historic and cultural area known as La Villita. This corner of San Antonio began in the late 1930s to house a community of artists and craftsmen. There are several preserved houses and shops that survived from the 1800s. It now houses a museum, specialty shops, cafes, and restaurants. The city did well to incorporate into its overall neighborhood master plan.  

La Villita:

 

Missions of San Antonio National Park- Outside of the city proper lies this historically protected area along the San Antonio River. The park consists of 4 of the 5 missions that were established by the Spanish to spread Christianity from the 17th-19th centuries. The 4 missions are: Mission Concepcion, Mission San Jose, Mission San Juan, and Mission Espada. The 5th mission is the church in the Alamo complex which was originally named Mission San Antonio de Valero. Due to my schedule, I was only able to visit two: Mission Concepcion and Mission San Jose. 

Both were in great shape and many structures were preserved and/or restored by conservators. The park is rather large and it's best to bike or drive to all 4. They are spread out so it would be too tiring to walk to them all. I took a public bus to the 2 missions from the city center. There was no entrance fee and you are free to roam all structures of the complexes. The main sanctuary of the missions are still used for church services weekly. The surrounding courtyard and walls are a blend of original and reconstructed stone bricks. Some of the original stone ovens survived and are present throughout the interior. At the time I went, it wasn't crowded (even thought it was a Sunday), so it was peaceful and tranquil strolling across the church lawns and exploring the various buildings at the missions. This was definitely a highlight of my trip as it was far away from the city center, there was more fresh air, it was more green, and the missions appear as much as they did during the colonial days. 

Mission Concepcion:

 

  

 

Mission San Jose:

 

 San Antonio exceeded my expectations overall. It's constant efforts to display and preserve it's past while incorporating modern attractions have made it a well run cultural city. There endless attractions, dining options, and green spaces to relax and enjoy the scenery. This is definitely a place I recommend to those who visit Texas. The city is easily walkable and there are plenty of attractions along the main Riverwalk area. I hope you have the chance to visit San Antonio to experience it for yourself! 

My next blog will showcase some daytrips I took since I moving back to Korea!

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